/ +1 206 446 2425
Published Work

Wired—October 18, 2017

Review: Breville Precision Brewer

The latest drip machine from Breville offers many ways to tinker with the variables that go into brewing your morning cup.

WIRED—October 14, 2017

Knead To Know: The Secrets of Gluten, Revealed

Nathan Myhrvold’s second food manifesto, Modernist Bread, is a $625, five-volume labor of loaves.


Wired—October 7, 2017

Review: The Traeger Timberline 850

Mechanical bugs and faulty thermometers stunt Traeger’s otherwise great grill.

Wired—September 15, 2017

Review: Dave Arnold’s Spinzall Culinary Centrifuge

The Spinzall kitchen centrifuge does stuff like clarify fruit juices, make butter, and create clear herb oils. But does it, you know, work well?

Wired—August 4, 2017

Wheat Nerds and Scientists Join Forces To Build A Better Bread

A group of bakers, millers, and scientists are working to make whole-grain foods delicious. Here’s what happens at the Grain Gathering, an annual meeting of some of the world’s best bakers, millers, and grain growers in the flowing meadows of Washington State’s Skagit Valley.

Wired—July 19, 2017

Review: Meal Kits Provide Tasty Dinners, With A Side Of Landfill

We review ready-to-cook meal kits from Amazon Fresh, Blue Apron, Purple Carrot, and Home Chef.

WIRED—July 13, 2017

Review: Cook By Numbers With The Hestan Cue

The Hestan Cue’s app guides you through recipes step-by-step, setting your pan to exactly the right temperature every time. Is it worth the price?

WIRED—June 28, 2017

Review: Stasher and Anova Team Up On Multi-Use Sous Vide Bags

Stasher has teamed up with sous-vide company Anova to market its reusable silicone bags to trendy home chefs.

WIRED—June 9, 2017

Review: Oh, Look, A $350 Box To Hold Your Cheese

The Cheese Grotto promises to extend the life of fine cheeses by creating the perfect storage conditions. But in reality, deli wrap might work just as well.

WIRED—March 16, 2017

Holy Shucking Fit! You Might Be Shucking Oysters All Wrong

Learn a hinge-first technique for popping bivalves open with a formal beauty that recalls the tango.

Wired—February 15, 2017

A Review: Panasonic’s Countertop Induction Oven—Underdone

Panasonic gave a splashy introduction to its Countertop Induction Oven at this year’s CES, promising to get tasty dinners on the table in record time by blasting them with impressive-sounding technology.

This oven, aka the CIO, pairs an induction burner—which …

Wired—December 6, 2016

Review: PicoBrew Pico—Drinking Game

If you’re an avid fan of regional microbreweries, a new home-brewing machine offers an ability that’s like having the ability to tap a keg 3,000 miles away.

It sounds enticing but in terms of use beyond just a couple of …

WIRED—December 12, 2016

Review: Thermomix—Smart Kitchen 101

THE SMART KITCHEN is the buzzword of the culinary world, connecting appliances to a phone, a tablet, and even the cloud in the name of efficiency. It’s a new market that’s still finding its feet, presenting a mix of industry-changing …

WIRED—November 13, 2016

Cookbooks With A Dash of Science

ONE DAY, WE might look back at 2016 and realize it was the year where everybody finally started getting comfortable with the idea of science in the kitchen. From the latest from Cook’s Illustrated and Alton Brown to funky fermentations …

WIRED—October 29, 2016

Inside the Battle to Rule the Smart Kitchen of Tomorrow

KITCHEN ARCHITECT JOHNNY Grey gives smart, inspired speeches that could be TED Talks. He speaks about the things you’d expect from somebody dedicated to kitchen design, like light, and where you stand to cook. But he also introduces concepts like …

WIRED—October 29, 2016

Review: Misen Chef’s Knife

AMONG ALL THE tools and gadgets that can fill a kitchen, knives are without a doubt the most personal and indispensable. Admire one in a chef’s collection and prepare for an unsolicited earful of its history, but do not expect an offer for you to try it. My own collection is modest but I’m proud of it. Among them, my favorites are a Wüsthof Classic Cook’s Knife and my Tadafusa santoku. The Wüsthof capably does everything from mincing a shallot to cutting up a chicken and the sharper blade angle of the santoku cuts through vegetables like a scalpel.

Would the new Misen Chef’s Knife, offered at what appears to be an amazingly low $65 stack up?

WIRED—Sunday, October 16, 2016

Review: Balmuda The Toaster

FOR REASONS THAT never became clear to me, my brother-in-law Gregory emailed over the summer suggesting that I review a toaster called the Balmuda available only in Japan and Korea. His subject line was persuasive. It read: “The Perfect Toaster.”

Thursday, September 22, 2016

Review: Breville Fast Slow Pro—Pressure Drop

Pressure cookers are heralded as near-magical kitchen appliances, making stocks, cooking grains, creating risottos and other flavor-packed meals in a fraction of the time other methods might take. They are smart timesavers and workhorses with a lineage that extends back …

Sunday, September 11, 2016

Review: Weber Summit Charcoal Grill—Burn Rate

Jeff the Weber Grill rep arrived, huffing and puffing at the top of the steps as he introduced himself. His wife Jill looked on worriedly from the door, beyond which lay their big, white delivery van.

“I don’t think it’ll …