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Published Work

WIRED—October 29, 2016

Review: Misen Chef’s Knife

AMONG ALL THE tools and gadgets that can fill a kitchen, knives are without a doubt the most personal and indispensable. Admire one in a chef’s collection and prepare for an unsolicited earful of its history, but do not expect an offer for you to try it. My own collection is modest but I’m proud of it. Among them, my favorites are a Wüsthof Classic Cook’s Knife and my Tadafusa santoku. The Wüsthof capably does everything from mincing a shallot to cutting up a chicken and the sharper blade angle of the santoku cuts through vegetables like a scalpel.

Would the new Misen Chef’s Knife, offered at what appears to be an amazingly low $65 stack up?


WIRED—Sunday, October 16, 2016

Review: Balmuda The Toaster

FOR REASONS THAT never became clear to me, my brother-in-law Gregory emailed over the summer suggesting that I review a toaster called the Balmuda available only in Japan and Korea. His subject line was persuasive. It read: “The Perfect Toaster.”

RECENT ARTICLES


Thursday, September 22, 2016

Review: Breville Fast Slow Pro—Pressure Drop

Pressure cookers are heralded as near-magical kitchen appliances, making stocks, cooking grains, creating risottos and other flavor-packed meals in a fraction of the time other methods might take. They are smart timesavers and workhorses with a lineage that extends back …


Sunday, September 11, 2016

Review: Weber Summit Charcoal Grill—Burn Rate

Jeff the Weber Grill rep arrived, huffing and puffing at the top of the steps as he introduced himself. His wife Jill looked on worriedly from the door, beyond which lay their big, white delivery van.

“I don’t think it’ll …


Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Smartphone-Enabled Kitchen Gear Can (Probably?) Make You a Better Chef

THE JETSONS KNEW how to cook: Ride the conveyor belt over to the kitchen console, press the Bacon button and—BOOP!—there’s breakfast, rising up out of the kitchen table. The animated 1960s TV series was right about some aspects of the …


Thursday, June 2, 2016

Go Shuck, Yourself: 4 Oyster Knives Reviewed

WHEN I WAS a kid, I loved going to work with my dad once or twice a year. Dad was a salesman and on the days we went into Boston for work, he’d bring me to a Faneuil Hall kiosk …


Thursday, May 5, 2016

Review: Pat’s Backcountry Beverages—Brewskis In The Bush

HIKE TO THE top of your favorite mountain, kick back, put up your feet and you may find yourself thinking that the only possible way to make it better would be with a tall, cold one. That’s a dream for …


Tuesday, May 3, 2016

Review: T-Fal OptiGrill Plus—Controlled Burn

A few nights back, my wife and I had some friends over for a barbecue on our apartment roof. When it came time to start the festivities, I immediately lit the grill on fire, and not in a good way. …


Friday, April 1, 2016

Review: Breville PolyScience Control Freak—Burnin’ for You

Almost every day in my well-used home kitchen, I work with a double standard. I pop something in the oven and dial in a specific temperature, say 175°C. However, on the stovetop, I settle for the vagueness of low, medium, …


Friday, March 4, 2016

Hacking Your SodaStream With a Paintball Canister Can Save You Piles of Money

We drink a lot of carbonated water in my household. Enough, in fact, that we’ve owned a trusty SodaStream Fountain Jet (the company’s entry-level carbonator) for years. Even with the sunk costs of the machine itself and the purchase of …


ChefSteps - March 2016

Soft, Airy Chinese Steamed Buns: Simplified

The Chinese steamed buns known as bao have been around for more than 1,500 years, but it took chef David Chang to turn them into a global phenomenon. He did it by centering dishes around them in his Momofuku restaurants, …


WIRED - Gadget Lab - Friday, February 12, 2016

Review: DrinkMate Carbonator—Under Pressure

Early last year, an editor asked me to review and rank home carbonators—those countertop machines that turn chilly water into lovely seltzer. Research quickly revealed an industry in chaos. Some brands were plagued with deservedly horrible reviews or simply didn’t …


ChefSteps - February 2016

Recipe: Ultimate Chocolate Cake

Use a mix of classic techniques and—of course—a ChefSteps twist to create a showstopping, multi-layer cake with an incredibly deep chocolate flavor.


WIRED - Gadget Lab - Thursday, January 21, 2016

Review: Rabbit Freezable Beer and Whiskey Glasses—A Chilly Reception

Flipping toward the crossword in the Sunday paper not long before Christmas, an ad for some puzzling-looking glasses caught my eye. Rabbit, manufacturers of a well-known corkscrew, had introduced freezable beer and whiskey glasses designed to cool your drink and/or …


ChefSteps - January 2016

Amazing Chewy Bagels From Scratch

With a hands-off approach that encourages the full, complex flavors that only time and fermenting yeast can provide, this recipe will fill your house with the amazing aroma of bagels and your mouth with their chewy texture, and soft, springy interiors.


WIRED - Gadget Lab - Sunday, December 13, 2015

8 Food-Prep Apps That’ll Make You a Ninja in the Kitchen

From recipe help and sustainable seafood to the perfect pour and eggs just the way you like ‘em, these eight apps give you stellar advice at home, and help you make tastier choices when you’re out shopping.

Read the full …


WIRED - Gadget Lab - Saturday, November 14, 2015

Review: Drop Kitchen Scale—Connected Kitchen Scale Shows Cooks The Weigh Ahead

One of the best restaurant tools has been slow to catch on in home kitchens: the humble scale. Americans’ reluctance to use weight to measure ingredients has a lot to do with our recipes being written in a volume-centric style. …


WIRED - Gadget Lab - Saturday, November 12, 2015

The 5 Pizza-Making Tools You Need to Create a Perfect Pie

Making pizza at home should be an event. From a hot steel for your oven to a sharp wheel to cut that pie, these tools make it happen.

Read the full WIRED reviews here.
[Art by Joe …


WIRED - Gadget Lab - Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Review: Sansaire Searing Kit—Cooking With Fire

Cook one of the best hunks of meat of your life and moments before it goes out to the table, it will almost certainly look like a great, gray blob. Get a nice sear on it, though, and suddenly you’re …


Seattle Weekly - Tuesday, June 16, 2015

The Rise of the Blue-Footed Chicken, the Best Damn Bird You’ll Ever Eat

Sex! Lies! Blue-footed Chickens and the most fun I’ve had reporting a story in a long time. Ruffle feathers and uncover the amazing Poulet Bleu in this week’s Seattle Weekly cover story.


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