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Published Work

ARCHIVE OF THE YEAR 2018


WIRED—December 12, 2018

Review: Tovala Steam Oven With Tovala IQ

I get a little flush of excitement every time I receive a box of kitchen gear that I’ve called in to test. They are always items I’m curious about and ones that have the potential to change the market or, …


WIRED—November 18, 2018

My Favorite Cookbooks of 2018

In this zinger of a year, food’s role in our lives felt like it shifted every day. Cooking at home became more of an oasis than ever, a meal with friends somehow more important. Some nights, though, punting and ordering …


WIRED—November 17, 2018

The Pie of the Future Is Baked With Freeze-Dried Ingredients

High-end chefs spend a lot of time figuring out how to get foods to taste their best. Are they seasoned correctly? Is there a balance between fat and acidity that makes you want more? Is there a way they could …


WIRED—November 14, 2018

Review: AmazonBasics Microwave

Moments after plugging in Amazon’s new Alexa-connected microwave I was about to review, the first thing I noticed was the word that popped up on its screen: FAIL. It hadn’t—it had just jumped the gun a bit in the connection …


WIRED—November 4, 2018

Review: Cuisinart Extra-Large Rotisserie Fryer and Steamer

Deep-fried turkey is an exciting Thanksgiving menu sub-genre, bringing new flavors—and risk!—to the traditional holiday feast. To fry a turkey in the now-classic way, you hook a propane tank to a large, stand-alone burner, heat a giant vat of oil …


WIRED—October 23, 2018

The Mad Science of Fermentation’s Funky Flavors

More people across the US are making their own kimchi and sauerkraut, brewing kombucha in their kitchens, and working fermentation into their everyday cooking. In the recently published book The Noma Guide to Fermentation, from the famous Copenhagen restaurant, chef …


WIRED—October 23, 2018

Get Yourself the Right Cookware to Maximize a Small Space

Renting a tiny room in Nob Hill for too many dollars a month? From a brand-new pressure cooker that might be better than your Instant Pot, to a pan set that stacks without becoming an annoying, wobbly tower, to a …


WIRED—October 23, 2018

Brew a Perfect Pot of Coffee With Bodum Mocca’s Beam Heater

Making coffee is a science, so brew it in something that looks like it’s on loan from a chem lab. Siphons—also called vacuum pots—traditionally use butane heat sources. Bodum’s Mocca instead uses the red-hot glow of a 430-watt halogen Beam …


WIRED—October 19, 2018

Review: The Noma Guide To Fermentation

Occasionally, when shredding cabbage to make sauerkraut, I wonder, of all vegetables, why this one? Don’t get me wrong—little makes me happier than a late-night snack of beer, cheddar, crackers, and kraut, but the popularity of the lowly cabbage for …


WIRED—October 13, 2018

Review: Hestan Smart Induction Cooktop

The first thing I did with the new stovetop in front of me was the simplest and the most important. I set the burner to a temperature, set of pound of butter in a pan and walked away for 20 …


WIRED—August 18, 2018

Review: PK360 Grill & Smoker—A Solidly Built Grill/Smoker Combo With Excellent Temperature Control

It may have arrived at my home in a box delivered by FedEx, but from the moment I saw it, I wondered if the grill I was testing hadn’t been shipped directly from the set of some 1960s sci-fi television …


WIRED—August 13, 2018

Review: GE Smart Countertop Microwave With Scan-to-Cook Technology

The first thing that struck me about the mass-market microwave that connects to the internet is how peculiar the machine’s diet is.

The GE Smart Countertop Microwave with Scan-to-Cook Technology is, despite the mouthful of a name, fairly unassuming to …


WIRED—July 26, 2018

Presto Nomad Review: It looks like a cooler, but it’s a slow cooker that’s made to travel.

In 2005, my friend Mike bought an old and unreliable Infiniti G20 sedan in England for the equivalent of $750, did some emergency repairs, then drove it across Europe and down to Senegal. That was a long time ago, and …


WIRED—July 21, 2018

Review: Instant Pot Max—This Powerful Instant Pot Can Get Dinner To The Table Faster, In Theory.

Electric pressure cookers hit it big in American home kitchens a few years back because, along with the perceived lower risk of dinner on the ceiling, they cook food fast. Something like beef stew, which takes all day in a …


WIRED—July 6, 2018

Five Pieces of Primo Meal-Prep Gear for the Campsite Gourmet

From a Dutch oven made in Holland to a two-cup espresso maker, to a stainless steel growler, here’s some choice equipment for cooking like a pro in the wild. Toss the packets of dehydrated soup and make a real meal …

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