Ain’t No Thing But A Chicken Wing
The Daily - Arts & Life - Saturday, February 4, 2012
The last time I was in Buffalo, N.Y., my hair caught fire in a botched effort to down a flaming Dr Pepper shot at Mulligan’s Brick Bar. The only other thing I remember from that weekend is the chicken wings: flaming hot and particularly good with cheap beer. But what makes this quintessential football food so important to its hometown?
Andy Denne, chef at Allen Street Hardware, a rather perfect bar and restaurant in the historic Allentown district, had a few answers. Denne is a Buffalo native and a journeyman chef, but only on special occasions does he whip up wings, making him a neutral insider in the wing wars.
I called him to ask if it was worth making a winter trek to his city for Buffalo wings.
“First of all, we just call them wings, and I wouldn’t eat wings anywhere outside of western New York state,†he said. “C’mon up, man!â€
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